“Iceland” by Moyan Brenn is licensed under CC BY 2.0
If you are planning to drive in Iceland, you need to understand F roads. F roads are mountain roads; Fjallið means mountain in Icelandic.
For lots more about F roads and driving in Iceland, check out our brand new Safe Driving in Iceland Video Course!
Some F roads are hardly roads at all– you might consider them mountain tracks. Here is a picture of F210, for example:
“Iceland” by Moyan Brenn is licensed under CC BY 2.0
These F roads are only open in the middle of summer. VERY roughly, F roads open around mid-June, and close between late August and the end of September. (For more specific opening dates, see this page from the Icelandic Road and Coastal Administration.) And you need a 4 wheel drive car to drive on them; some F roads may also require sufficient ground clearance.
The most important thing to understand is that some maps and mapping programs are not aware of these limitations of F roads, and will not warn you about them. Let’s look at an example.
Suppose you would like to go see Thórsmörk, a beautiful protected valley in South Iceland, covered in lush green vegetation:
“Þórsmörk” by Jennifer Boyer is licensed under CC BY 2.0
Google Maps tells you it’s a reasonable 2 hours and 20 minutes from Reykjavik:
The map above is interactive, so double click a few times near the last road into Þórsmörk. Eventually, you will see it is labeled F249:
Let’s switch to the map from the Icelandic Road Association.
Here you are provided a lot more information. First, you can see that 249 starts off as paved, and then switches to gravel. Second, you can see that the road name switches from 249 to F249. (This change you can also see on Google Maps.) Finally, you can see that there are some rivers that F249 crosses over. Let’s zoom in on that last section leading to Þórsmörk:
Now you can more clearly see that, once the road name changes to F249 heading east, it crosses 3 rivers. The 3rd of these crossings is over the river Krossá. Oh, did I mention that F roads typically do not have bridges? Take a look at what this part of F249 looks like:
If you really want to try and cross this, and it’s one of the 2-3 months where the road is even open, you need:
- A 4 wheel drive vehicle
- Significant ground clearance. How significant? It depends on the day. You need to watch other vehicles cross, wade in the water yourself, or talk to someone who knows the conditions today.
- To make sure nothing has changed. For example, rivers fed by glaciers tend to get deeper later in the day, as more ice melts.
- To drive downstream if possible, so you aren’t fighting against the current
- To keep a constant slow speed
- To realize that your rental car insurance more than likely doesn’t cover damage due to river crossings.
But the mapping programs don’t tell you any of this. Even the professionals get stuck doing this crossing:
![screen_shot_2015-09-03_at_11.25.25_am[1]](https://icelandwithkids.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/screen_shot_2015-09-03_at_11.25.25_am1.jpg)
And as for tourists, I think the title of this article says it best (though this is talking about West Iceland): Police constantly assisting travellers stuck on impassable roads which they thought were shortcuts.
Iceland is stunningly beautiful, but it is also natural and untamed. You’ll have an amazing experience. Just make sure you understand the roads. And, unless you plan carefully, avoid F roads.
A very informative article. Should let the Iceland newbie be more aware of what fording a river can be. Thank you! There are more considerations like one shouldn’t travel the highlands by oneself and be aware that cellhpone won’t work in most places etc. Read all about it here:
http://www.rent.is/blog/driving-the-highlands-in-iceland
Maybe not all but a few pointers before heading out into the wild and majestic highlands.
Safe travels!
Hiii!!
I really very imprrssed about how brave you and your
family is! Congratulations!!
So, me and my wife are planning a Highlands Trip about
10/09/2019.
So, i’m gonna rent a Land Cruiser Toyota.
Do You think is enough to get on Posmork Volcano huts?
Or its better just take this mountain bus?
And how about Landmannalaugar? Theres a lot of rivers
also? thanksssssss
Hello Filipe, and thanks for reading! First let me make sure we’re using the same date format. Are you are traveling on September 10th, and not October 9th? If you are going in October, the F roads have a decent chance of being closed; it just depends when the first snowfall is. With either date, keep an eye on the weather forecast. You don’t want to have the first snowfall close the road while you still need that road to get back!
Regardless, I recommend you take a bus to Þórsmörk. The river crossing here is extremely dangerous. Lots of people get stuck. That article says the park rangers “regularly tow cars out of the river.”
The river crossing to Landmannalaugar should be more doable, especially in September. (The rivers are fed by melting glaciers, and I think the melt is more intense in early summer.) It’s still real crossing, and you should:
1. Check the Landmannalaugar Facebook page
2. Watch some other cars cross the river to see how they do it.
3. Realize your insurance might not cover damage caused by the river crossing.
Good luck!
Really thanks for your message!
You are very atencious!!
So… i really didn’t know about the difference of Landmannalaugar rivers and Posmork!
Do you really think is possible take a car and go to Landmannalaugar ( my target is Haifoss waterfall and Sidöglufjur ( valley of tears).
Do you think is possible CROSS those small rivers and
get there?
i’ve been thinking ( and reading a lot) to try to cross Landmannalaugar… but i a little bit scared….
even a little bit scared I’m gonna do it! ?
You can do it if you’re careful, and if you’re willing to turn around if conditions aren’t ideal that day! Check with your rental car company, and if you’re going by yourself, submit a plan to safetravel.is. But yes, I think it’s doable. But I’m not an expert here, since I’ve never done it!
You don’t need to take F roads if you visit Háifoss from the other direction. So that’s an option if you decide not to take F roads.
Maybe you should take a class from this place: Off road academy. Looks like fun!
Very nice tip!!
Do you know haifoss waterfall?
So, i really would like to visit Haifoss and
Sidölglufur ( valley of tears canion).
Which way i need to take?
By the map i guess that are close from
Kerlingarfjol … i am correct?
thanks!! and God bless your beautiful family!!
regards from Brazil
So to get to Sigöldugljufur Canyon you do need to travel on an F road. And while it looks kind of close to Kerlingarfjöll on a map, I think it’s going to be a long and bumpy ride between them. I think you need to go through Flúðir, which might take 3 hours or more!
Be sure to check with your rental car company and with any local guides. Remember that these F roads might not even be open if there’s an early snowstorm!
Ok! i understood!
Highlands are special place, but we should be
prepared, right?
Please tell me: I’m planning to go about 05/09 and 10/09. Is it possible snowing there?
And.. do you think is possible cross Highlands
since Landmannalaugar ( blue peak)… until Sidulglufur?
My plan is cross ( landmannalaugar to Sidulglufur)
me and my wife ( only us in a Land Cruiser Toyota).
How many days we need to do it? There’s maps
from these places? I very excited and little bit nervous.
lol!
Yes, it’s possible for there to be snow in September! That’s the thing about the Higlands (well, and much of Iceland): you need to be ready to cancel your plans! You simply won’t know what the conditions are until a coupl eof days before your planning to go there. I think it’s fine to plan for it, but have a backup plan! Make sure you have working cell phones, buy a printed map, and ask the experts once you are there before you go! Ask every expert you see. 🙂
With a lot of preparation I think you can do it. But yes, there can be snow in early September. Or one of the river crossing might be impassable. You need to be willing to cancel your plans, since you won’t know the conditions until you’re there. Make sure your cell phone is working, tell safetravel.is your plans, buy a printed map, and ask every expert you see. Ask everyone you see if they think it’s safe. 🙂
Oh God!
So exciting as scaring!
You know a lot of iceland!
i will acept yours tips and posting in my Youtube
channel after.
Please… where can i buy maps from Landmmanalaugar?
First i gonna to Posmork. maybe i can buy there?
And is that any problem fo film with drones there?
i ‘m thinking to change my plains to highlands
at end of august perhaps!
I would start with a basic map of Iceland like this one. That will help you unnderstand F roads and how to get to the places you want to get to.
As for drones, here are the current rules. Good luck!
Hi!! Thank you so much!
I already bought it!
By the way, could you please can show me the best
HIGHLANDS book LINK?
I really need it, but from my amazon page i didn’t find !!
please if you have a link as this one you sent me,
i will very grateful
— My country dont buy all offers in amazon, maybe because the region !
thanks
Hi Filipe,
Sorry, but I don’t know which books cover the Highlands well! You may just have to look at various web sites. Good luck!
Thank you agaen, and agaen!
i’m gonna looking for these information.
By the way…. i found a stunning green mountain
between dark sand called: mælifell!
Do you know it?
It’s very stunning view!!!!
Is that a hard way from the landmmanalaugar
huts to there?
thanks!!!!
Hi Filipe,
Nope, I don’t know about Mælifell, other than it looks beautiful! Here is a good article that talks about these F roads, and the river crossings.]
Good luck, and be careful! Please make sure you know what you are doing before venturing onto any F roads!
Thanks a lot! You have a lot of knowledge about iceland and very atencious.
By the way, i a little bit confused about two Icelandic gems with similar names: Sigoldufoss and Sigoldugljufur !
Google said the both are close from a restricted area near from a Power Plaint on Landmmanalaugar ( but i very confused)
Can you please help me with this information?
Hi Filipe,
I think they are two parts of the same place. The suffix “gljúfur” means canyon, so Sigöldugljúfur is the whole canyon area. The suffix “foss” means waterfall, so Sigöldufoss is a waterfall there. Hope that helps!
You always helped!
Thanks!!
What do you think about Eldgjá volcanic canion and Ofærufoss waterfall?
I’m planning go on there, but i dont know so much about!
Some people says about be dangerous that river close of it ( Nædry… something like that).
Do u think is possible with defender?
Thats will be my last checkpoint on iceland.
thanks my friend
Hi Filipe!
I don’t really know the answer here. I’m immediately a little worried, since the word Ófær literally means “impassable”! So Ófærufoss translates to impassable waterfall! You will sometimes see the word Ófær on road closure signs.
You can probably get there, but you need to be smart. If conditions are bad, you need to turn around! I’ll recap my F road warnings / tips here:
1. Ask! Ask locals, or park rangers, or other drivers you see, how conditions are. Remember that rivers can get higher later in the day.
2. File a plan with safetravel.is. And have working cell phone service, and download the 112 app.
3. Be willing to turn around, even if you have already driven for several hours!
4. Read articles about how to cross a river properly. And check with your rental car company to see what they think.
Please remember that you are turning your vacation into a real adventure with real danger. You are responsible for your own safety in the Icelandic highlands! A river can easily sweep your car away if you aren’t prepared. Please be safe!
thank you so much..!
I’m gonna keep yours advices with me all the time!
and now i am thinking about doing some private tour and make a lot of questions for
a guide to get more prepared… and maybe in next day go alone with my car.
I can slice my Highlands tour in two while i acquire more ability