Raufarhólshellir is one of the most popular lava caves in Iceland. It’s about 40 minutes from Reykjavik. But even better, if you’re heading to Geysir on the Golden Circle, it’s less than 10 minutes out of your way.
A couple of years ago, I wouldn’t have qualified that first sentence. Raufarhólshellir was unquestionably the most popular lava cave in Iceland. But that was when the cave was free and open to the public without restriction. As tourism increased, so did stress on the cave. Visitors left trash, stole pieces of the cave, and had to be rescued.
To be fair, we noticed none of that on our visit in 2016, just a few months before the cave was closed to the public. What we did notice was a beautiful cave that starts out with lots of light quickly gets pitch black as you head further back. I can imagine unprepared tourists getting into trouble.
The cave re-opened in 2017 with new lighting, walkways … and paid tours as the only way to get in. I was a little bit worried about this; we loved exploring on our own (and for free.) Would a paid tour be worthwhile?
The answer is definitely yes. First, prices are reasonable: 6900 ISK for adults ($55 US, €50), half price for teenagers 12-16, and free for kids 11 and under. That’s for an hour guided tour, including helmets, lights, and a guide.
Second, our guide was fantastic. Funny, knowledgeable, and engaging. She was so fantastic that I was honestly worried that the cave operators chose to match this travel writer with their superstar guide. (I quickly realized that I’m not that important!) My guess all of the guides are very good, though. Here she is giving us a safety briefing before we enter the cave.
(Wear your helmet at all times, and test the light attached to the front of the helmet before you go in! The light has three brightness settings, so keep pushing the button.)
Third, the cave is wonderful. It doesn’t look like much from the outside:
But head toward that dark spot in the center and you enter a different world. The first part of the cave is well lit, thanks to 3 “skylights”– giant holes in the roof of the cave. These allow light in, and green moss and algae to grow. They also allow snow in, which you can see inside of the cave for much of the year. Here’s a picture from June of 2016:
Notice the lack of walkways back then!
But on this day in August of 2019, there was no snow to be seen:
The guide stops every couple of minutes to discuss the formation of the cave and point out interesting spots inside. The new walkways make this an easy journey once you’re past the entrance.
As you walk, you’ll leave the natural light behind. And the greens from the plant life give way to natural reds of the rocks in the cave.
Eventually, you reach the point where there’s no more natural light coming into the cave at all. The red color almost looks artificial, but the lights that are installed in the cave are only white:
Back here in the dark part of the cave, the guide will ask you to turn off your head lamps, and hide cell phones and watches and any other sources of light. You will be in complete darkness for 3 or 4 minutes. I mean complete, and I mean 3 or 4 minutes. You can’t see the railing. You can’t see your hand in front of your face. There’s not a single photon of light. It’s hard for me to convey how dark it will be, and how long 3-4 minutes of complete darkness feels, but it’s a long time. Make sure you and your family are ready– there will be light again!
At the furthest point of the cave, you can take some selfies. Then the guided part of the tour is over, and you are free to walk back on your own. (You’ll likely pass another tour group heading in the other direction.) Walking back without stopping made me realize how little distance we had covered; maybe 350 meters or so. That walk back only takes 4 or 5 minutes, and the world gets progressively lighter.
This is a worthwhile tour, and a great “starter tour” for families (or anyone!) Tours start on the hour, from 9 AM until 5 PM. (So the last tour starts at 5 PM and ends at 6 PM.) Evening tours are being offered in 2019, with tours leaving at 8 PM and 9 PM. These are likely to continue in the summer, but you may or may not be able to book one outside of June, July, and August. Tours often sell out, but you can usually find a time with availability the day before.
You can book at their web site: TheLavaTunnel.is. And LavaCave.is also redirects here, if you want something easier to remember. The Frequently Asked Questions say that children must be at least 3 years old. But younger kids should be allowed as long as they can walk the cave on their own (and as long as the adjustable helmet fits on their head) or be carried in a baby carrier.
Raufarhólshellir Lava Cave is a great addition to your Golden Circle Day. If you’re done another lava cave (Like Gjábakki Cave or Víðgelmir Cave) you don’t need to do Raufarhólshellir too. Unless you want to!
Raufarhólshellir is a convenient option, and it’s a lot of fun.
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